PAZU兒旅網 > 旅遊網 > 亞洲 2004 > 路線 > 雲南山路圖 Attitude Profile of Yunnan





踏車日日期位置公里數 km
12006-6-9中國雲南關累港口(Guanlei, Yunnan, China)
→孟侖(Menglun)
78.947
22006-6-11 → 景洪(Jinghong)72
32006-6-16 → 大渡崗(Dadugang)74.56
42006-6-17 → 思茅(Simao)77.56
52006-6-22 → 普洱(Pu'er)48
62006-6-24 → 德安(De'an)73.7
72006-6-26 → 鎮沅(Zhenyuan)82.4
82006-6-27 → 景東(Jingdong)72.38
92006-6-29 → 無量(Wuliang)67.86
102006-6-30 → 南澗(Nanjian)47.5
112006-7-4 → 巍山(Weishan)42
122006-7-5 → 大理古城(Dali Old Town)73.16
132006-8-25 → 右所一條小鄉(Yousuo)48.65
142006-8-26 → 鶴慶(Heqin)70.8
152006-8-28 → 麗江(Lijiang)46.44



General information

Accomodations: Guesthouses cost around Y30 for a Standard Room (標準間, biaozhun jian), which means a double room with toilet. Motel-styled accomodations are rare, most are upstairs and are usually equipped with solar hot shower, water can be cold on a cloudy day. There's a strange custom in China, a deposit is not compulsory, but the receptionists are usually reluctant to give you back any change of money when you pay during check-in, but to give you a receipt stating that the change as yajin (押金, deposit). It's difficult to argue for an immediately change, better keep the receipt and get back the money when you check out. It's equally hard to demand the change if you lose the receipt, don't throw it away. Room price can be skyrocketed one week before and after the golden period: Spring Festival (around February, according to the Lunar Calendar), Labour Day ( May) and the National Day (1 October).


Day 1: From Guanlei port to Menglun 關累去孟侖

Difficulty level: Very hard
Distance: 79km
Attitude of destination: 558m
Location of starting point: N21.676888, E101.132681
Location of destination: N21.936913, E101.253947
Time: 8 hours
Overall road condition: Bad

If you're heading up to China, bad news, Guanlei isn't an ideal point to begin. The road leaving the port is a relatively easy ascent along a good paved road for 14km, followed by another 7-km descent.

At the 3-way intersection, go left (North) and the bad road starts. You'll ride uphill from 633m to 1353m above sea level. Large extruding rocks making this ascent very difficult in some sections. Traffic is thin and there're several villages but don't expect any shops or restaurants until 37km from Guanlei, at a small village named Tengmieshan (藤蔑山村), a bowl of instant noodle will probably be available. Bring enough food and water.

The terraced fields was stunningly beautiful only if you still have the energy or time to admire it. At 41km from Guanlei it's a long and shaky downhill for 19km. Then you reach the first big town named Mengxing (孟醒), with some restaurants and probably a guesthouse (but was said to be closed in June 2006). Good news is that bad road stops here.

Your better place of stay is still 17km away, at Menglun (孟侖), along a mostly good road, though with lots of noisy and terrible trucks. Beware of some big holes along the road. Pazu's bicycle fell down to one of the potholes and broke his dropout and derailleur (Oat spent only 30 minutes to fix everything). Bring spare parts (and a bike guru too)!

Place of Stay: There're some guesthouses before you enter Menglun, but you'd better stay in the town center. Inside Menglun and there's a sign on the right hand side pointing to the "Police Station" (in English). Then there's another sign with a big "30 Yuan" (written in Chinese). Sanyang Dajiudian Qilunyuan (三羊大酒店麒麟園 Tel: 8715388) has clean twin rooms on the ground floor with hot shower and TV for 30 yuan only, very good value and quite a relief after such hard ride. You can park your bicycle at the hotel door and they have staff to look after it at night. The land owner of this hotel is very friendly and helpful.

Another option: If you're coming from Chiang Saen or Chiang Khong of Thailand by boat, try finding one which goes to Jinghong directly, so as to avoid this leg of ride. Another option is to cycle to Mangle (曼勒) from Guanlei. Going from Guanlei there's an intersection at Mangguoshu (芒果樹), then head south and there's another intersection. Go to the east direction to Mengle and the road joins with Highway 213. This road is paved, but traffic is busy and terrible. Whichever road you choose, Guanlei isn't a very good starting point.


Day 2: From Menglun to Jinghong 孟侖去景洪

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 72km
Attitude of destination: 551m
Location of destination: N22.004948, E100.800498
Time: 4 hours
Overall road condition: Acceptable

Leaving Menglun and turn left (West) at the 3-way intersection just outside town, the road today is mostly paved. There's a mild climb for 22km up to 771m above sea level only then it's downhill almost all the way to Jinghong. It's quite a pleasant ride today, with several fish farms and banana plantations along the road.

At 20km away from Menglun is Mangjing Village (曼景村) with small restaurants, shops and possibly guesthouses. At 34km away from Menglun is another bigger town named Manfa Village (曼法村) with shops and restaurants. At 42km away from Menglun is Ganlanba (橄欖壩), one of the more famous tourist areas in Xishuangbanna. A good place to stay is the Sarlar Restaurant (沙拉餐廳 0691-2410319) runned by a very friendly Dai family, Y15/person. They are building a new hotel section at the backyard (June 2006).

The Lancang River (Mekong River) merged with the main road after Ganlanba, but you'd still better to concentrate on your front rather than those rafting boats on the river. Traffic is getting busier and trucks are always fast and sometimes reckless.

Place oF Stay: Once you get into Jinghong, follow the road to the left at the 3-way intersection and cross the huge suspended bridge (resembles Rama VIII Bridge in Bangkok). Most of the accomodations are concentrated on Mangting Lu. One surprisingly good-valued place to stay is Jianhua Luguan (建華旅館), (they don't have any English sign and it's difficult to point out how to find it, ask around along Manting Lu 曼亭路), Y30/double with hot water, TV and even air-conditioner(!) They have some medium-sized rooms on the ground floor and you may still put at least two bikes and a trailer inside, not without some effort though. Tel: 0691-2163588.

Bike shop: There's one professional bike shop named "Kuche Didai" (酷車地帶 meaning "Cool Bicycle Zone") in Jinghong, located at No.11 Jingdelu (景德路), near the County Police Station. Mr Li Huarong (李華容), the very friendly and helpful owner, said they were going to move to a new place. Call (0)13035975555 or email lhr6938@yahoo.com.cn to find him.


Day 3: From Jinghong to Dadugang 景洪去大渡崗

Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance: 75km
Attitude of destination: 1398m
Location of destination: N22.369572, E100.934262
Time: 6 hours
Overall road condition: Acceptable

Starting from Kuche Didai Bicycle Shop at Jinghong, cross the big suspended bridge and turn left at the turnabout to go to Mengyang/River North (孟養/江北). There was a moderate ascent then a smooth descent to Mengyang, which is a big town with guesthouses and restaurants. Shading area barely exists, making it a hot ride in a sunny day.

The good news is that the new super highway going from Mengyang to Simao has already opened in June 2006, prohibitng bicycles to go though (with a symbol at the entrance), most trucks and tour buses go by the new route, making the old road's traffic extremely thin. Some parts of the old highway were damaged (probably because of the construction of the new highway??), but the ride was still very pleasant for cyclists.

There're some guesthouses and shops dotted along the section from Jinghong to the Wild Elephant Ville (野象谷), but after that most shops closed because of the new expressway.

There's a continuous ascent, ranging from mild, moderate to exhausting, leading to Dadugan (attitude: 1405m), the destination of today. No further downhill until tomorrow.

Dadugan is famous for the terraced tea leaves farm (implying the town is high in attitude), local claims that a few years ago 3 grams of the tea from Dadugang were sold for a record of 800,000 yuan, probably another scam.

Place to stay: There are at least four hotels in town, Ronghua Bingguan (榮華賓館) lies on the main road going to Simao. They have rooms on the ground floor but were usually full. Rooms with/without shower room cost Y30/Y15. All rooms are equipped with TV, but not even with a fan! The staircase next to the toilet (you can't miss the smell) has a full view of the terraced view facing east.


Day 4: From Dadugang to Simao 大渡崗去思茅

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 77km
Attitude of destination: 1312m
Location of destination: N22.782918, E100.971746
Time: 4.5 hours
Overall road condition: Acceptable

Today is an easy ride if you are riding north (or hard if you are riding south). Leaving Dadugang, there is a 26-km downhill on mostly good roads, then another 6 km of flat ride, leading you to a big town called Puwen (普文). There are some restaurants.

The traffic from Puwen to Simao is getting busier (with trucks), with some moderate climbing. Road condition was generally good or acceptable, bad roads did exist but generally not longer than half kilometer each.

Place to stay: It's difficult to recommend a place to stay in this big town. We stayed at Youzheng Zhaodaisuo (郵政招待所, Y30 for a very big room with four beds! No fan again though). Address: 6 Xinhua Xiang (新華巷). Tel: 2144882. There are more guesthouses on the Zhenxing Lu (the longest road in Simao), most have a price list, but strangely, they can always give you at least 20% discount.

Bicycle shop: Simao is bigger than Jinghong but they don't have any professional bike shops at all. Most normal bicycle shops can be found on the Zhenxing Lu (振興路), but service is probably basic.

Restaurant: There's an all-you-can-eat buffet hotpot restaurant (陶記自助火鍋店) at Xinhua Xiang (新華巷), Y5 for a mixed hotpot (鴛鴦鍋) plus Y10 per head. Food was fresh, including squid, pork, beef, liver, brain, clotted blood, tofu, and a large selection of vegetables. A good place to recharge your energy after an exhausting day of cycling, bad luck for the owner of the restaurant.


Day 5: From Simao to Pu'er 思茅去普洱

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 48km
Attitude of destination: 1357m
Location of destination: N23.067188, E101.048892
Time: 3.5 hours
Overall road condition: Acceptable

Go along Zhenxing Lu (振興路) for 2.5km until you see a very big 4-way intersection, follow "Lao 213 Xian" (meaning the Old Highway 213), there's a gentle uphill of 3km, then downhill of 3km and another uphill of 7km, until you reach Zhala Mountain Pass (attitude: 1729m). The road condition is good, traffic is extremely thin, such a pleasant ride!

But at 3km after the Zhala Pass (扎拉山口), there's one really bad road, fortunately it lasts for a hundred meter only. There's another further 14-km downhill, then the old road joins with the "refurbished" highway. Bad news, traffic is very busy again.

We haven't seen any restaurants on the road from Simao to Pu'er, so bring your own snack.

Place to stay:Most guesthouses concentrate near the bus terminal. Luxing Binguan (旅行賓館) has rooms with/without bathroom for Y30/Y20. A triple room here costs Y40. Some rooms here face the quieter inner courtyard, avoid those facing the highway.


Day 6: From Pu'er to De'an 普洱去德安

Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance: 73.7km
Attitude of destination: 1264m
Location of destination: N23.423633, E101.192666
Time: 5 hours
Overall road condition: Good

Ask for the direction to Mohei (磨黑) but make sure you go by the old route (老路, lao lu), which is longer and more mountainous than the new highway (possible for bicycles too) but traffic is very thin here.

There's a reservoir just above the old route, then a stone-carved stele with four Chinese characters: Cha Ma Gu Dao (茶馬古道), which means Tea Horse Old Road, the ancient trade route connecting Yunnan with Tibet, Laos, Mynamar, Thailand, even Hong Kong and Taiwan. The stele was erected quite recently by the Yunnan Tourism Authority.

Road condition to Mohei is generally good. There's a stone mine located at 6km away from Pu'er, the road was broken in some sections, but distance was short. After the stone mine is a small intersection, keep going straight (don't turn left). Mohei is 31km away from Pu'er, there's a 3-way intersection at the town's entrance, you should go straight, but the town center is about 100m further up the left road. There is a rather popular market, net cafes, restaurants and guesthouses in town. Mohei is famous for its rock salt mine.

At 16km from Mohei, there's a big toll gate at Chou Shui (臭水), turn left to Simao and right to Kunming (both written in English), however you should go by the middle path (north). This scenic route is the longest section of perfectly paved road we have ridden so far in China, traffic is still as thin as usual, making this quite a dream ride.

It is still 24km to De'an (德安), 39km to Meizi (梅子), 68km to Gucheng (古城). All three places have guesthouses..

Places to stay in De'an: Near the county government is De'an Keji Fuwu Lou (德安科技服務樓), which is just above the Tenglong Pharmacy (騰龍大葯店). A clean double room with shower room costs Y20, good value.


Day 7: From De'an to Zhenyuan 德安去鎮沅

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 82.4km
Attitude of destination: 1086m
Location of destination: N24.00444, E101.113378
Time: 5 hours
Overall road condition: Mostly good

Today is an easy ride, some climb and downhill, road condition is still good and traffic is as thin as usual. At 14km away from De'an is Meizi Village, which is bigger than De'an, they have guesthouses and restaurants. Further down 28km (i.e. 42km away from De'an) is Gucheng Village, also with basic facilities for tourists. The destination today is Enle Town of Zhenyuan County.

Place to stay: Once you get into town, there's a turnabout (4-way intersection). Keep going and follow Enshui Lu (恩水路) and you'll see Amei Fandian (阿美飯店, Tel: 5811728). They have sign in English, but the font was quite badly designed that you may have just missed it. It's right opposite a clinics (中心衛生院). They have rooms on the ground floor, Y30/double with shower, okay value.


Day 8: From Zhenyuan to Jingdong 鎮沅去景東

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 72.38km
Attitude of destination: 1200m
Location of destination: N24.451175, E100.842304
Time: 5 hours
Overall road condition: Mostly good

Going along Enshui Lu to the end, turn left and then right, ignore the first Y-intersection, turn left at the second Y-intersection (2.3km from Zhenyuan) then turn right at the third intersection. If it sounds too confusing, ask around.

At 36km away from Zhenyuan is Dula Village, is a long cluster of beautiful houses in traditional style, built just 4 years old because of a relocation plan of the local government. There're several villages along this route, Yumishan (39km away from Zhenyuan), Wenjing (49km away from Zhenyuan), Qingliang (56km away from Zhenyuan) and Jingdong, all have accomodations and restaurants.

The road condition degenerates a bit, many roads were broken because the bases were sunk, but still very wonderful for cyclists, and the good news is that traffic is still thin, another day of pleasant ride.

Place to stay: Mingtong Hotel (明通酒店, Tel: 0879-6228998) has rather spacious rooms on the 2nd floor for Y30/double with shower room. The room faces the highway, but at the time of our visit (June 2006), the traffic outside was very quiet, even at night. The hotel is located next to the Chasheng Square (茶生廣場, Chasheng Guangchang, at 白雲路 Baiyun Lu). The hotel is in the newer section of town, which is rather quiet.

Things to do: The town center is on the western side of Chasheng Square. There're three newly built pagodas (三殿, San Dian) on top of Yubi Shan (御筆山, meaning the Mount Emperor's Pen), you can't miss it if you look around. You can ride your bicycle uphill along the old route, the path steepens as you climb the hillside but the view was wonderful. We rated this ride as "moderate to difficult". The caretakers said they had never seen people riding uphill before, not before us, haha.


Day 9: From Jingdong to Wuliang 景東去無量

Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance: 67.86km
Attitude of destination: 1791m
Location of destination: N24.804824, E100.556362
Time: 5 hours
Overall road condition: Mostly good

The road is rather steep today but traffic is as thin as usual. If you decide to stay in Wuliang, there's an intersection at 66km away from Jingdong, turn left to Nanjian, or turn right (and uphill) to Wuliang. There's a lively Thursday market here but the town itself is rather dirty.

Place to stay: The lack of good accomodations making Wuliang quite a bad choice of destination. You may want to stay at Xinqiao or Baohua, see Day 9 for more information.

There are 3 guesthouses in Wuliang, the first one at the entrance of the village, it was said to be full when we visited there. The second one near the Trade Market (集貿市場), you will have to ask around to find it. They have rooms (without toilet) for Y10 only, you may however want to pay more if they have a better room (no they don't). The hygiene of the public toilet is of typical Chinese standard. There's one more guesthouse further uphill, they have a very good mountain view, but we don't see anyone (no staff, no stayers).


Day 10: From Wuliang to Nanjian 無量去南澗

Difficulty level: Easy to moderate
Distance: 47.5km
Attitude of destination: 1378m
Location of destination: N25.051084, E100.520468
Time: 3.5 hours
Overall road condition: Mostly good, some acceptable only

Leaving Wuliang for 3.2km there's an intersection. Turn left to Lincang but you should go straight. At 5km away from Wuliang is Xinqiao (新橋), with at least two guesthouses, probably better places to stay than Wuliang. There's a lively Friday market here, though not as colorful as those in northern Vietnam. At 20km away from Wuliang is another bigger town called Baohua (寶華), they have a good accomodation called Baoyuan Hotel (寶源酒店). Traffic is getting busier but not daunting. Road condition is not as good as yesterday but is still acceptable even in a rainy day.

At around 8.5km away from Wuliang is Shi Dong Si (石洞寺, meaning Stone Cave Temple, they have sign in romanized script), there's a dirt road going down to the two small temples at the bottom of the valley, you can see them from Highway 214.

There're some rather steep climbs today, you will go above 2000m for the first time in this ride, but the last section is a no-peddle-ride downhill for 17km, make sure your brakes are in good condition and beware of hot brakes, the downhill ride leads you to Nanjing which is 1378m above sea level, at such a "low" attitude, Nanjian is notorious for mosquitoes.

If you follow Highway 214 (passing through Midu 彌渡), then Dali and Midu are still 106km and 45km away Nanjian respectively. But we've heard that this highway 214 is currently under reconstruction (June 2006), so a better option is to go through Wenhua Zhen (文華鎮) of the Weishan County (巍山縣).

Place to stay: Nanjian offers a huge selection of guesthouses, the best place to stay is probably the Youth Hotel (南澗青年旅舍, written in English). They have a university dorm feel, sound insulation (mostly TV noise) is bad but everyone sleeps quite early at least. There are 3 "youth hotels" in town, runned by the same owner, but the one we recommend is located at Zhengyi Lu (正義路), near the Police Station and Post Office. Address: Zhenxing Lu, near the long-distance bus terminal. Tel: 0872-8525998. Not yet Hostelling International-affiliated, they offer 10% discount for HI members. Rooms are Y30 (not discounted yet) with attached bathroom. You can use the washing machine for Y2; internet Y2/hour, Y40/day, or Y60/day/two people. And make sure you know how to use the shower heating system, there's a sign written in Chinese inside the bathroom, warning that you should beware of getting an electric shock!


Day 11: Nanjian to Weishan 南澗去巍山

Difficulty level: Very easy
Distance: 42km
Attitude of destination: 1737m
Location of destination: N25.233564, E100.308032
Time: 3 hours
Overall road condition: Very good

Today is an easy ride that you may even want to skip Weishan to Dali. But Weishan (or Nanzhao Zhen 南詔鎮) has a very beautiful old town with quite an antique charm which is less artificial than the one in Dali, except that they don't have any banana pancakes here, it worths at least a day or two to do some sightseeing.

Leaving Nanjian Town for 1.7km there's an intersection near the Sinopec gasoline station, left to Weishan and right to Dali (through Midu), we'll turn left. Then following the shallow river is another intersection, you should go straight.

Today's road conditons range from lovely to wonderful; gentle ascent to very gentle uphill, the first ten km you may have the impression of riding flat.

At 6.7km from Nanjian there's a funny split of the road, you should keep right (as the custom in China) and the two roads will be joint together after 200m. At 36km from Nanjian there's a sign near a stupa saying that it's 11km more to Weibaoshan (巍寶山). Go straight for 1km more and turn left to Weishan. The official name of this town should be Nanzhao Zhen (南詔鎮), some foreign-published maps still marked it as either "Wenhua Zhen" (文華鎮) or simply ”Weishan Xian" (巍山縣).

Place to stay: Weishan has a small old town with quite a limited choice of guesthouses. Most rooms are around Y50 for a standard room (private toilet), or Y10/person/normal room (public toilet). The best deal in town is in the rather luxurious Weishan Binguan (巍山賓館), they have rooms at a quiet and lovely courtyard for Y40 with private shower and TV. More expensive options are available and indeed they may also have some cheaper rooms (Y30) for rent but you may have to "negotiate" in Chinese with the receptionist . (Address: 52 Dongxin Jie, Nanzhao Zhen. Tel: 0872-6122655)


Day 12: Weishan to Dali Old Town 巍山去大理古城

Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance: 73.16km
Attitude of destination: 2034 m
Location of destination: N25.697738, E100.170471
Time: 5.2 hours
Overall road condition:

Road condition is acceptable at the beginning, not as good as the previous day though. The first 30-km is a flat ride, then followed by a 10-km of very steep climb up to 2402m above sea level and another steep descent. The scenery was wonderful (especially after heavy raining, we saw it!). Road traffic is busier and filled with buses, trucks, cows and goats.

After entering Xiaguan City there's a route leading to Binchuan Dongyi (賓川洞宜), keep going until you see a sign showing "Downtown" (市區), turn left and then turn right at the first intersection, follow the Taian Bei Lu (泰安北路, bei means north), keep going straight (not literary straight, well...), then it's a very well paved cycling path for 8km, there's a fence separating motorcycles and other vehicles from us, though the road may still be used as free parking slots for some inconsiderate drivers.

Just two kilometers before you get into the Dali Old Town is an intersection, turn left and keep going straight until you see a huge ancient gate, turn left and ride a bit uphill to the Yangren Jie (Westerners' Street), that's where most guesthouses concentrated.

Place to stay: No. 5 Guesthouse (四季客棧, Siji Kezhan) has simple and rather gloomy double rooms for Y50 (low season) or Y60 (high season), Y10 discount for Hostelling International members. Dorm bed costs Y25. Toilets are public but very clean if you count in the fact that you are in China, hot shower is strong enough to soothe a day of exhausting ride. The good news is that you can forget handwashing, the washing machine and internet are free. This place can be very popular during high season, you may also try the guesthouse next door. Xingyue Binguan (星月賓館, meaning Star and Moon, symbols of Muslim) has double room with attached bathroom for Y50, it is housed inside the compound of the Dali Mosque, the staff are friendly and rooms are clean, but it lacks any backpacker atmosphere and the hot shower is rather weak, washing machine is still free.


Day 13: Dali to Yousuo 大理古城去右所

Difficulty level: Easy to moderate
Distance: 48.65km
Attitude of destination: 2434m
Location of destination: N26.057878, E100.120531
Time: 4 hours
Overall road condition: Good

There are two highways going to Lijiang from Dali, S221 and 214. Highway S221 is well paved but accomodation can be scarce, highway 214 passes through more small towns but will take 20km more to go to Lijiang.

If you go by the highway S221, you can sleep in Yousuo or Songgui for the first night, second night in Heqin and third night in Lijiang. Check the info of next day.

From Dali Old Town, it's a flat ride on a bike lane until the Junmachang toll gate, bike lane disappears, followed by a humongous hill climb for 8km to Yousuo. There is only one simple motel named Tuji Yuan (土雞園, meaning local chicken restaurant), simple bed costs Y10 per person, no room has attached bathroom. The place itself has nothing to see, nothing to do, no other buildings and not even a wooden hut except the motel, they provide delicious meal though, Y4 for fried vegetables, Y6 for pork, most Chinese come here for the chicken pot.

If you don't want to stay in Yousuo, better ride to Xiyi (see next day's attitude profile), which is a small town with restaurants and dirty guesthouses. From Xiyi it is a breezy 7-km downhill to Songgui which is probably a better place to stay than Yousuo or Xiyi.


Day 14: Yousuo to Heqin 右所至鶴慶

Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance: 70.8km
Attitude of destination: 2189m
Location of destination: N26.5604, E100.177406
Time: 6 hours
Overall road condition: Good

The highway is very well paved, we didn't encounter any collapse section and it is sometimes as quiet as country road, but the occasional reckless drivers (trucks and lots of tour buses) can still be a nuisance, especially when you are right next to a steep.

There are only very few buildings along the road, not a good idea in a rainy day.

The 7-km descent from Xiyi to Songgui sees a lot of accidents, there are at least 7 signposts next to the highway saying something like, "If you don't accept our advice, you can't pass this road." "Slow! Slow!! Slow!!!" "Five people died in an accident in this section of road."

After Songgui are many traditionally dressed Bai people working in the fields, the view is very scenic with their color costumes and disc-shaped black hat. A bike lane reappears at about 10km before Heqin.

Heqin Town is surprisingly pleasant and there is an artificial old town built ten years ago by the Department of City Planning, the big tower in the middle of the old town named Yunhe Lou (Cloud Crane Pavilion) was built in 1514 during the Ming Dynasty. The Cultural Hall located at Nan Dajie houses some old steles dating back to the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasty.

Xinhua Village (新華村) which is 7km away from town, has a delightful lotus pond (in summer), surrounded by shady trees, local kids love swimming here. This village is famous for their silverware, Bai people believe that silver can fend off ghosts and prevent inflammation (?). Most factories are open to visitors, you can't miss the rhythmic percussion sound. There is a large compound of souvenir shops selling silverware, Dali stone sculptures, goat skin painting, Chinese medicines and local snacks. A silverware museum will be opened in October 2006, admission Y28 with a Chinese speaking tour guide. To get there, ride from the western side of Yunhe Lou (the ancient tower) until you pass the metallic futuristic sculpture, turn right at the first intersection, keep going straight for 6km.

Place to stay: Going along highway S221 until you see a cluster of buildings in traditional style, turn left and go to the ancient tower, turn left again to Nan Dajie Street (南大街). There are some guesthouses along the road, two cheaper accomodations are located right in front of the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China, which is just behind the Chama Gudao Wenhua Yuan Square. Kaiyuan Luguan (凱元旅館) has double rooms facing a quiet courtyard, bathroom has solar hot water, Y40. Address: 50 Nan Dajie, Heqin. Tel: 0872-4129586. There are also several guesthouses along highway S221, Hongyuan Lushe (宏緣旅舍) in front of the hospital, has rooms facing the noisy highway, Y30 for a rather spacious room.


Day 15: Heqin to Lijiang 鶴慶去麗江

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 46.44km
Attitude of destination: 2410m
Location of destination: N26.876371, E100.23325
Time: 3 hours
Overall road condition: Excellent

This short leg of road is one of the most picturesque we have seen so far, a sea of sunflowers are planted along the way. Traffic is much less busy than yesterday, road are perfectly paved, the last section of the so-called Dali Lijiang First Class road has a fence separating the bike lane.

Once inside the new town it can be difficult to find your way. Follow the road to Wangu Lou, an ancient tower built on top of the mountain, it is the center of the old town.

Place to stay: Unfortunately it is prohibited to ride your bicycle inside most of the Old Town, at least not during the day. The only area that permitted bicycle is the southern gate (nanmen, 南門), near the Wangfu Hotel, which is the first entrance to the Old Town you will see if you ride from Dali to Lijiang via the Highway S221. There are several guesthouses around this area, most will cost Y50 for a standard room with attached shower, very quiet at night. Strictly speaking this is not really an old town, but a newly built area in traditional style. All houses have an history not more than 3 years old. Other option is to stay at the new town, which is further down the road. The Red Sun Square (Hongtaiyang Guangchang, 紅太陽廣場) which stands a huge Mao Zedong has some good accomodations. Follow the right hand of Mao, going down one block of road, along the Minzhu Lu (民主路), until you see the Huaxin Internation Aviation Office, there's a small guesthouse at the alley which has a sign in red color. 宏慧賓館 (Honghui Bingguan) has standard room with attached shower for Y40 (during low season), the room is clean and bed is big, shower is really hot and it's quiet quiet, good value (if it's Y40).


Day 16: Lijiang to Hutiaoxia Town

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 80km
Attitude of destination: 1853m
Location of destination: N27.188574, E100.050619
Time: 5 hours
Overall road condition: Good, except the first short section near Lijiang

Starting from the KFC near the Old Town gate, go along the Minzhu Lu to the long-distanced terminal. Before the Giant Bicycles, turn right at the big 4-way intersection. This very short road was under major reconstruction during September 2006, they poured water on the road everyday so it wasn't too dusty, just muddy, which one is better? The reconstruction should be finished by the end of this year.

At about 8.6km away from Lijiang is Lashi (拉市), which is famous for its nearby lake and apples, but the town itself is rather deserted.

At 29.5km is Xianggeli Xionggu Scenic Area (香格里雄古景區), you can't miss the magnificient gate. There is a small temple downstairs, entrance is free and the view was superb.

At 36km is a Sinopec gasoline station, go left for 12km to Baihanchang (白漢場) or right for 139km to Zhongdian (中甸), the old name of Shangrila. There are also some restaurants and hotels.

At 55km is the Songyuan Bridge (松源橋) which cross over the Golden Sand River (金沙江). Turn left to follow the highway 214 and thus enter the Diqin County. Or you may go straight, which has a road parallel to the highway 214, and go to the Tiger Leaping Gorge Scenic Area instead. We don't know the difference between the two routes, there are three more bridges further down the road connecting both sides until Hutiaoxia Zhen (虎跳峽鎮, Tiger Leaping Gorge Town).

The five kilometers following the bridge has many hotels (some seem to be quite expensive) and a cluster funny Tibetan buildings in ugly Chinese style (houses were all emptied during September 2006).

Place to stay: The Tiger Leaping Gorge Town (Hutiaoxia Zhen) is usually used as a resting point for those who have just finished hiking around the area, there are many guesthouses, but the town itself is rather boring. We stayed at Yinli Huayuan Hotel (銀利花園酒店), Y40 for a clean room with attached bathroom. Address: Along the Highway 214. Tel: 0887-8806666, 1398870315.


Day 17: Hutiaoxia Town to Xiao Zhongdian

Difficulty level: Hard or moderate, see notes for explanation
Distance: 62.07km
Attitude of destination: 3240m
Location of destination: N27.55764, E99.815511
Time: 10 hours
Overall road condition: Good or bad, see notes for explanation

You are going to pass through an attitude higher than 3000m for the first time along this route, the road condition is generally good from the Hutiaoxia Town (KM2146) to Mingcao (KM2125, 明槽), which has a 195m-long tunnel.

After that there are two routes leading to Xiao Zhongdian (小中甸), the perfectly paved new route was collapsed in Sept 2006 so we had to take the rather shaky old dusty road with an enormous and exhaustive uphill. This is a very hard part as shops and hotels are very far apart, plan well before. In any case you will most likely go by the new route so you shouldn't worry much.

We rated this road as hard and road condition bad, because of the old route.

Place to stay: There are several guesthouses in Xiao Zhongdian but only one has attached shower room. The magnificent Yakajieze Tibetan Cultural Mountain Ville (雅卡吉澤藏文化山莊) has nice double rooms with attached shower for Y50. Tel: 0887-8826099. Most other places will charge Y10 per bed, toilet outside.


Day 18: Xiao Zhongdian to Shangrila

Difficulty level: Easy
Distance: 34.48 km
Attitude of destination: 3302m
Location of destination: N27.815262, E99.703784
Time: 2 hours
Overall road condition: Good

Today is a short ride to Zhongdian which is just 35km on a almost flat road. The highway is wide and traffic is okay, not too eventful. There's a knife factory at KM2071 where you may want to pay a visit.

Place to stay: Most backpackers stay at the newly rennovated Dukezong old town, though not too cyclist-friendly as the road can be quite bumpy. One of the more famous guesthouses in the old town is Harmony Guesthouse (融聚), run by the friendly and helpful Joey (姜興東), a native of Kunming who loves travelling. Simple double rooms (Y40) are without bathrooms but the public shower is always hot (solar plus electricity hot water system). Dorm bed costs Y15. The place has some harmonic atmosphere that it is easily full even during low season. They may close in winter (from mid-November), call to confirm. There's a youth hostel located at the new town near the bus terminal, which may be better for cyclists as you can push your bicycles in.










[遊記] [相片] [路線] [資料] [通訊] [聯絡及留言]